<qwebirc53148>
I am using openwrt in the console.  relative newbie to linux.  How do I tell which keymap is being used?  I am trying to get a backquote into the keymap.
<xiangfu>
qwebirc53148, by default it QWERT as the keyboard shows.
<xiangfu>
qwebirc53148, you can use 'dumpkeys' and 'setkeycodes' to change some keys.
<xiangfu>
qwebirc53148, or 'loadkeys' maybe.
<xiangfu>
qwebirc53148, you can install 'kbd-console-maps' for get more keymaps
<qwebirc53148>
A week ago the login page gave me an option to pick a nickname.  Now I am just assigned one (qwebirc53148???).  Is it possible to get back to choosing one myself?  Sorry for off topic.  Thanks for any hints./
<wolfspraul>
I think 2 drivers are still missing (lcm + mmc), but the first big step is made and the diff and maintenance overhead for upleveling u-boot will go down a lot
<wolfspraul>
that's 'just' the bootloader, but any diff we get upstream makes me worry a little less about our ability to make cool new devices
<qi-bot>
[commit] Werner Almesberger: m1rc3/norruption/2/collda: corrected $n to be the number of standby failures (master) http://qi-hw.com/p/wernermisc/86e86dc
<qi-bot>
[commit] Werner Almesberger: m1rc3/norruption/2/plot-cdf: start empirical distribution at (0, 0) (master) http://qi-hw.com/p/wernermisc/9b2f2d1
<qi-bot>
[commit] Werner Almesberger: m1rc3/norruption/2/aloop: lock the NOR again after restoring standby (master) http://qi-hw.com/p/wernermisc/88bf6b7
<whitequark>
yay! my components for lvds-board have arrived
<whitequark>
I'm about to coin a new term, "yo dawg syndrome".
<whitequark>
DigiKey have sent me a polyethyelene packet, inside there is a polyether antistatic/moisture package (which is absolutely unopenable), inside is a polyethylene package, inside is a polyethylene package, have I said that inside is a polyethylene package? And inside is a chunk of tape, and finally there is an IC.
<whitequark>
and they've sent each IC in its own polyether package
<whitequark>
for some reason only known to them
<whitequark>
a package fetish maybe.
<whitequark>
oh. trying to solder some TSSOPs and WSONs revealed a fun fact: I suck at soldering :/
<whitequark>
(also: there is never enough flux)
<whitequark>
actually: no, I don't. also: I will pray for the inventor of Flux-Off for the rest of my life.
<whitequark>
if there are still some remaining small sticky solder spheres, you've not used enough of it.
<wpwrak>
what type of flux do you use ?
<wpwrak>
why doesn't your ultrasound cleaner get rid of it nicely enough ?
<whitequark>
wpwrak: RMA
<whitequark>
I've understood several important things, namely:
<whitequark>
flux, flux-off, pre-heating and ultrasonic cleaning are like violence. if they don't solve some of your problems, you are not using them enough
<wpwrak>
;-))
<whitequark>
finally, I've got some sense out of this f***king board
<whitequark>
it was not SO bad
<whitequark>
that was just a whole lot of solder paste remains
<whitequark>
they looked awful
<wpwrak>
i would go easy on the pre-heating, though. i've had some bad experiences with having too much heat around.
<wpwrak>
hmm, if you solder manually, you should need solder paste over in very few situations. e.g., for crystals.
<whitequark>
hm
<whitequark>
do I?
<whitequark>
I've just poured it on every shining area and plucked the components on it
<whitequark>
also, flux
<wpwrak>
also, for the flux, RMA is good but also very dirty. you may find "water soluble" more convenient.
<wpwrak>
solder paste should already include enough flux.
<whitequark>
(rma) flux-off gets rid of it COMPLETELY. the board is not sticky at all and it is clear like a mirror
<whitequark>
(solder paste) I use a Russian product.
<whitequark>
it does not.
<wpwrak>
(rma) yes, but it's sticky while you're working on it :)
<whitequark>
(rma) I don't care much about that. I can always use more flux-off :D
<wpwrak>
are you sure your solder paste is for electronics ? ;-)
<whitequark>
yep
<whitequark>
that's written on it
<wpwrak>
maybe they confused the label :)
<wpwrak>
solder paste without flux doesn't make sense :)
<whitequark>
nope. it's just done in a very Soviet way
<whitequark>
it has _some_ flux
<wpwrak>
aha !
<whitequark>
and I guess not the best kind of it
<whitequark>
maybe, worst
<whitequark>
and it tends to split itself into layers
<wpwrak>
maybe they thought the formula they used to fix ships will do for chips, too ...
<whitequark>
you're not very far from the truth
<whitequark>
(solder paste) what's your way of soldering things like tssop48 or 0603 caps?
<whitequark>
or resistors
<wpwrak>
i think you may be better off with just flux and regular solder (preferably 63/37)
<whitequark>
the paste is 63/37, btw
<whitequark>
I guess it's done from the same materials that regular solder with rosin core is
<whitequark>
it's not very good either
<whitequark>
promises he will never be too greedy and save on solder. NEVER.
<wpwrak>
0402 and bigger: pre-tin the pads (options, but it helps. i do this one the whole board, before soldering any components). apply "water soluble" flux to the pads. place the component. hold it down with angled tweezers. touch a tiny drop of solder on one end. then on the other.
<wpwrak>
s/options/optional/
<whitequark>
I've tried that method
<whitequark>
the results are not that different. some things are better, some are worse
<wpwrak>
i haven't done tssop yet. ssop yes. there, i pre-tin (again, optional), apply a generous amount of flux on all the pads, place the component, hold it down, solder one or two pins (okay if they're bridged)
<whitequark>
ssop is easy as a pie
<wpwrak>
ok :)
<whitequark>
tssop is not very hard too, as it turns out -- just get something to remove the remaining balls
<whitequark>
but I have a hirose connector on the board
<wpwrak>
yup. flux and heat. repeat. if it's still messy, flux and solder.
<whitequark>
that connector will melt immediately if heated from the component side
<wpwrak>
lovely ;-)
<whitequark>
so I've sit there for 15 minutes and heated the board from underneath it
<whitequark>
boring as hell, but it works
<whitequark>
... I hope
<whitequark>
at least it has kinda the same shape
<whitequark>
maybe not exactly :D
<whitequark>
that's what I've called "pre-heating"
<whitequark>
I only have a SMD rework hot air gun, and no other smd-rework-related tools. so it's the only option to heat the whole board
<whitequark>
it's thick. and I forgot the thermal relief pads, as I've said
<wpwrak>
maybe pick a through-hole connector the next time, if possible
<whitequark>
that hirose stuff is a pain. it is rare, it cannot be identified when on board, and prior to this day, I've never managed to (de)solder it successfully
<whitequark>
that's not possible
<wpwrak>
mmh. then it's messy. did you pre-tin the pads/traces around the connector ?
<whitequark>
it consumes something like 2 to 4A by 3.3V
<whitequark>
and it is supposed to be powered by 5V
<wpwrak>
and what is the role of your thingy ?
<whitequark>
guess what: they've put an LDO on it.
<whitequark>
to make 3.3 from 5V
<wpwrak>
aah, level shifters
<whitequark>
nope
<whitequark>
it is POWERED through an LDO.
<whitequark>
it gets to full 125 deg. C while the board is idling
<whitequark>
it heats even more when it calculates something
<whitequark>
and pcb under it gets black soon
<whitequark>
we've mailed the vendor
<whitequark>
he said: it is normal condition (sic!)
<wpwrak>
lovely ;-)
<whitequark>
I, well
<whitequark>
I don't have any words for it.
<wpwrak>
now i know why you need military-grade solder ;-)
<whitequark>
my board isn't something like that
<whitequark>
I at least know that buck converters do really exist in this world
<wpwrak>
but they're more expensive ;-)
<whitequark>
yeah, extra $5 for a step-down on a $150 devboard is something unbearable
<whitequark>
let's make some ARM toasts instead
<whitequark>
also: they frequently do not solder some passive components on the board
<whitequark>
each time some other ones
<whitequark>
saying: "we don't have enough ones"
<wpwrak>
nice :) russian design is famous for its rugged robustness. i think they make good use of it ;-)
<whitequark>
there's an Atmel ARM
<whitequark>
on the other hand, the very same friend once (I don't know if that was an experiment or he has just missed the voltage. I fear that it's the latter) powered an ATmega8 with 12V
<whitequark>
for like a month, continously
<whitequark>
it worked.
<wpwrak>
MCUs are tough
<whitequark>
I guess Atmel has a whole lot of Russian engineers
<whitequark>
to make their products Russian-proof
<whitequark>
(my board) it gets TFT video signal on 40 pin side and outputs an LVDS for one particular notebook LCD on the hirose side
<wpwrak>
aah, that's why you need that connector
<whitequark>
yep
<wpwrak>
maybe try to find a 90 deg version if you need something similar in the future. should be easier to solder.
<whitequark>
luckily, we found a leaked datasheet on the motherboard
<whitequark>
it had a partnumber
<whitequark>
in any other case, I doubt we would be ever able to find the right mating one
<whitequark>
hirose are professionals of vendor lock-in
<whitequark>
no, not DigiKey nor Hirose site contain any references to 90deg version
<whitequark>
I think this particular connector was developed specially for this particular notebook series
<wpwrak>
nice :)
<whitequark>
*specifically, or maybe not
<wpwrak>
connectors are generally messy. very often, there's poor documentation
<whitequark>
hirose has nice datasheets, but if you only have a part on your hands, it's impossible to figure out which one it is
<whitequark>
each notebook vendor has its own variant of that LVDS connector, almost entirely like any other, but not enough to be pluggable
<whitequark>
and they like to play with the pinout, too
<whitequark>
and with the order of bits inside of the LVDS stream
<whitequark>
without any reason (except the lock-in) whatsoever
<whitequark>
I just realized that I can test the buck
<whitequark>
let's see if it will explode
<whitequark>
*the buck converter
<whitequark>
it did not
<whitequark>
does not work, either
<whitequark>
hm.
<whitequark>
either I am hallucinating, or I have a voltage of 0.4V between different points of ground plane