<whitequark>
which apparently doesn't make power supplies
<whitequark>
it makes... copper anodes and CCA wire? wtf
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<whitequark>
hmmm
<DocScrutinizer05>
whitequark: seems you survived yesterday's demo?
<whitequark>
demo?
<DocScrutinizer05>
oops, today?
<DocScrutinizer05>
nope
<DocScrutinizer05>
[2014-03-15 02:15:13] <whitequa1k> I'm pondering going there but not quite sure. people were beaten and imprisoned for months before...
<whitequark>
ah
<whitequark>
slept right through it
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<whitequark>
I was nearly dropping dead from exhaustion yesterday :)
<DocScrutinizer05>
right, the only mammals surviving KT-impact were those that selpt it away
<DocScrutinizer05>
;-)
<whitequark>
anyway I just fiddled with my CNC and added those two power supplies that have arrived
<whitequark>
so I'm back to full warp drive^W^W spindle power
<DocScrutinizer05>
back to full 555-frying capacity
<whitequark>
they won't fit inside, so I fit them outside
<whitequark>
works pretty great. voltage is remarkably stable for cheap chinese supplies.
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<DocScrutinizer05>
whitequark: nasty boy! black is L, not N ;-P
<whitequark>
DocScrutinizer05: ouch
<whitequark>
well, it's not like it matters anyway. the plug can be plugged in any way around
<whitequark>
the mains plug that is.
<DocScrutinizer05>
:nod: sure
<whitequark>
grmbl. the Al bed has grooves too big for M4 bolts I bought for this purpose
<whitequark>
and I thought I measured everything properly...
<DocScrutinizer05>
hm?
<whitequark>
well, I'm trying to fix victim plywood to the aluminium bed of my cnc
<whitequark>
and bolts *almost* fall through the T-slots
<whitequark>
clearly not wide enough to securely and properly fix
<DocScrutinizer05>
use washers
<whitequark>
hm
<whitequark>
yep that works
* whitequark
is actually quite surprised he got that power supply mount right the first time
<whitequark>
this is first time in my life I use: wire clamps, bolt cutter, drill on something metallic, drafting of this kind, ...
<whitequark>
and I only misplaced one hole by about 0.5mm
<wpwrak>
hint: for complicated manual drilling / cutting patterns, print the design on transparent film and use that as a guide / for marking
<whitequark>
exactly what I did
<whitequark>
well, I rather printed it on paper and duct-taped that to the case
<whitequark>
then drilled right through it
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<DocScrutinizer51>
PE film works great for avoisding scratches and marking the points for holes, and to somewhat keep drill from running away from point of hole
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<DocScrutinizer51>
when you got no PE film, a paper sticky tape does
<DocScrutinizer51>
PE film works great for avoisding scratches and marking the points for holes, and to somewhat keep drill from running away from point of hole
<DocScrutinizer51>
and always use X shaped marks so you still see where the center of hole shall be even when you started drilling
<wpwrak>
yeah. film -> manual holes (with an awl) -> remove film -> drill is best. that way, the film doesn't crumple
<wpwrak>
you can also do it with paper, but it's harder to realign
<whitequark>
why even remove paper?
<wpwrak>
because you don't want to damage it when working on the wood ?
<wpwrak>
e.g., if you pass with a saw, the paper will be ripped apart
<wpwrak>
if all you do is drill small holes, you can probably leave it there, if firmly attached, but most other tools will shred it
<DocScrutinizer05>
nah, attach (protective) PE-film with marks. Drill. Remove film
<DocScrutinizer05>
the thicker the film, the better
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<DocScrutinizer05>
sticky film of course
<DocScrutinizer05>
preferably (semi)transparent, though that's not mandatory
<DocScrutinizer05>
>>It is kind of sad, really, that people are so technically illiterate in a technological world. We live in a Cargo Cult society, really, where a bunch of primitive apes run around examining the technological relics handed down to them by the Gods.<<
<DocScrutinizer05>
unless your surface is irrelevant to begin with
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<whitequark>
DocScrutinizer05: ooh yes, masking tape. I have a roll
<DocScrutinizer05>
then you write proper cross-shaped marks on that paper. At least 20mm length for each line, so you *easily* can see if your drill is properly centered
<DocScrutinizer05>
even during drilling
<whitequark>
well the idea was to print the blueprint on paper
<whitequark>
I don't think I can print on masking tape
<whitequark>
I can print on self-adhesive paper but it's $$$ and then you have to get it off somehow
<DocScrutinizer05>
then use blueprint paper and transfer the marks from your template paper to the mask tape
<DocScrutinizer05>
s/blueprint/carbon copy/
<qi-bot>
DocScrutinizer05 meant: "then use carbon copy paper and transfer the marks from your template paper to the mask tape"
<whitequark>
well... why not just fix the blueprint on workpiece?
<whitequark>
drilling won't tear it off
<whitequark>
I mean, it did not
<DocScrutinizer05>
because it's not sticky
<whitequark>
so?
<whitequark>
tpe it over the edges
<whitequark>
*tape
<DocScrutinizer05>
doesn't work. Never did for me
<whitequark>
hmm, worked well for me. I missed that hole because I did not think it through and didn't make crosses like you suggest
<whitequark>
rather I printed a hole as well
<whitequark>
ofcourse that made positioning very hard
<DocScrutinizer05>
the idea is that the tape is sticky to your object to drill at the point where drilling, so it guides your drill and holds it in place
<whitequark>
lolwat? a 50 micron tape will hold my 1.5kg hand drill in place at 1000rpm or something?
<whitequark>
a hole made with an awl, sure. tape? can't believe that
<DocScrutinizer05>
while a simple paper not only doesn't hold the drill in place but also gets destroyed when drill runs away
<DocScrutinizer05>
well, all I can say is: it works
<whitequark>
hrm
<DocScrutinizer05>
the harder the surface you wanna drill (steel, glass) the more noticeable the difference
<whitequark>
well, I can try that surely
<DocScrutinizer05>
of course thick PE works better than thin mask paper tape
<whitequark>
define thick?
<DocScrutinizer05>
0.5mm
<DocScrutinizer05>
1mm
<DocScrutinizer05>
and yes, for sure you should pre-pinch with an ale
<DocScrutinizer05>
or a hardened steel nail and hammer
<DocScrutinizer05>
and even _that_ is much easier to accomplish when you got some "soft" sticky protective material on top of your steel surface
<DocScrutinizer05>
actually humans are not made for dealing with surfaces as hard as steel
<DocScrutinizer05>
only CNC (usually) doesn't mind
<whitequark>
hehe
<DocScrutinizer05>
try it and you'll get it what I'm talking about
<DocScrutinizer05>
and don't ask me how many steel surfaces I ruined when drill ran away while drilling
<DocScrutinizer05>
won't happen when you "mask"
<DocScrutinizer05>
even when drill runs away, it's not damaging the surface
<DocScrutinizer05>
(1000rpm) you should start slowly, young padawan ;-)
<DocScrutinizer05>
muuuch slower than 1000RPM
<DocScrutinizer05>
...until you *fell* the drill found its place
<DocScrutinizer05>
don't tel me your drilling machine has no variable speed
<DocScrutinizer05>
stuff like that isn't sold anymore since it's basically unusable
<DocScrutinizer05>
probably even your CNC has a numeric (aka PC) control for spindle RPM for exactly this purpose to start drilling slowly
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<whitequark>
DocScrutinizer05: (1000rpm) I have no idea how fast is my hand drill actually
<whitequark>
it's also graded in parrots
<whitequark>
(CNC) it actually did not have PC control for spindle out of the box, I think I told this story here already
<whitequark>
basically it had PWM output on control board with LPT and PWM in on spindle driver
<whitequark>
all I had to do is to run two wires
<whitequark>
hm, so G40 is simultaneously the gcode command for cutter radius compensation and ICD-10 code for epilepsy
<whitequark>
checks out
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<DocScrutinizer05>
hehe, G40 sounds about right, yeah
<DocScrutinizer05>
yes, you told the details about spindle speed control
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<whitequark>
DocScrutinizer05: I don't think CNC needs to "feel" anything though
<whitequark>
everything I seen recommended just plunging into workpiece
<DocScrutinizer05>
(CNC needs to "feel" )you're mixing up cause end consequence
<DocScrutinizer05>
when you're supposed to start with slow drill speed until you notice drill "found it's place", this doen't mean CNC does need to notice anything since drill will "find its place" with or without anybody noticing
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<whitequark>
but doesn't drill need to "find its place" only if you don't have rigid support while drilling?
<whitequark>
and CNC is supposed to be rather rigid
<DocScrutinizer05>
yes, but end,ill/drill bit is flexible before it breaks
<whitequark>
tool deflection, right
<whitequark>
well, it probably only matters much for tiny drill bits
<wpwrak>
(find its place) i guess bit flexibility vs. hardness of workpiece. e.g., your wobbly 0.2 mm drills vs. steel should yield interesting but ultimately tragic results
<whitequark>
hmmm
<whitequark>
I wonder
<wpwrak>
relatively thin drills vs. copper (for my vias) work fine without further ado, though
<whitequark>
yep, first thing I tested that .2mm drill at was copper
<whitequark>
works just fine
<wpwrak>
just make sure the workpiece doesn't move. drills really hate that :)
<wpwrak>
mine (for vias) are 0.35 mm and seem to last forever, as long as i don't make any mistakes
<wpwrak>
of course, if i do, *snap*, there it goes ...
<wpwrak>
the 1/8" endmill is great for making mistakes. i think it's stronger than any force my mill could produce :)
<whitequark>
yep, 3mm is rather thick
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<paul_boddie>
viric: Just tested gpg on the Ben NanoNote again. 4096-bit key generation works, but there's an excruciating wait for entropy.
<viric>
Ok
<viric>
!
<viric>
it's a rare operation though :)
<paul_boddie>
If there's any readable documentation about writing entropy generation devices for the kernel, maybe post it here for curiosity/amusement.
<paul_boddie>
But in case there was any doubt, gpg isn't too demanding on the Ben otherwise.
<paul_boddie>
And as I noted before, I get complaints about entropy on my desktop system anyway.
<viric>
aha
<viric>
very good!
<viric>
thank you a lot!
<whitequark>
DocScrutinizer05: well obviously this failed
<whitequark>
argh, "use washers"
<viric>
→sleep
<whitequark>
ofcourse that didn't work, because if nut is too small for the slot, *it wouldn't lock in the slot*
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<wpwrak>
viric: buy one atben and receive 2 MILLION true random bits per second FOR FREE ! ;-)
<wpwrak>
(in fact, you'll have a hard time to pull them out of the chip so fast. but you'll still be orders of magnitude faster than even your pc, with all its entropy sources)
<whitequark>
ARGH
<whitequark>
CNC seems to have lost its mind
<whitequark>
if I go higher in X, Y, Z then spindle works
<whitequark>
if I go lower in -//- then spindle inexplicably loses PWM
<whitequark>
what
<whitequark>
how is this even possible
<whitequark>
moreover when I turn spindle *off*, physically disconnecting its control circuit, it turns full-on for a sec
<wpwrak>
your CNC mill - the gift that keeps on giving ;-)
<whitequark>
I have this feeling I need to get rid of 555 in that circuit
<wpwrak>
yeah, raising that ancient corpse from the dead was probably a bad idea from the start ...
<whitequark>
it doesn't even do anything now
<whitequark>
it is basically supposed to act as a wire