DocScrutinizer05 changed the topic of #qi-hardware to: Copyleft hardware - http://qi-hardware.com | hardware hackers join here to discuss Ben NanoNote, atben / atusb 802.15.4 wireless, and other community driven hw projects | public logging at http://en.qi-hardware.com/irclogs and http://irclog.whitequark.org/qi-hardware
<wpwrak> (http://blog.p-dev.net/) seems that he's trying to do about the same thing, BTLE-wise, i'll eventually be after
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<nicksydney> got the parcel from taobao.com
<nicksydney> will post few pictures
<nicksydney> overall exprience with taobaoring.com was very good ... except 1 thing i noticed when I received the RA8875 chip it was outside of it's plastic container which i think was a mistake from their side as they did not wrap full plastic proplery
<roh> what do you plan to hack? something like this: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1590 ?
<roh> seems a nice chip
<nicksydney> roh: yes exactly...but the board will have all in one...the RA8875 + Cortex-M (or AVR) + BLE
<nicksydney> and possibly some small sensors like temp, humidity, proximity, etc
<roh> i see
<roh> how far does btle work in reality? (4meters? more?)
<roh> sounds nice and low power (basically mostly the display i guess)
<nicksydney> not sure about how far wpwrak will have some idea as he has been working with BLTE for a while
<wpwrak> naw, he has no clue. he hasn't even had a proper transmission yet :)
<wpwrak> regarding BTLE, i decided that what i have seen so far looks good enough that i believe we can make it work with the CC2543
<wpwrak> there are other people working on related items, so my plan is to simply wait for their results :)
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<nicksydney> wpwrak: etched the TPS61040 board http://postimg.org/image/536c7bomb/ http://postimg.org/image/e0r24oh2b/
<nicksydney> going to solder and component and cross finger :)
<Luke-Jr> The Ben-WPAN page hasn't been updated in a year; what is the status of atusb? Is it likely to be usable in the near future?
<kyak> what is a year compared to the eternal universe?..
<Luke-Jr> well, I'm hoping to get some sensors in place in the next month ideally.. :p
<Luke-Jr> trying to choose hardware, and always prefer to support open stuff
<kyak> we had a discussion with werner some time ago, and i decided settled down with this: http://www.ti.com/tool/430boost-cc110l
<kyak> 19 USD, free shipping, arrived in three days to Russia (which is amazing)
<kyak> since it plug directly into MSP430 Launchpad, i decided that it is ideal for my sensors network
<Luke-Jr> these can do 802.15.4? O.o
<kyak> i just had to fired up Energia IDE, and bum - i'm sending packets in no time
<kyak> no, it's not 802.15.4
<Luke-Jr> oh
<kyak> i'm just saying how it works and how it should work
<Luke-Jr> so I would need to basically create my own sensors to use this?
<kyak> now i'd like to rumbble about open source vs. closed, but user friendly source, but i have to go
<kyak> mm.. i don't quite get your question
<kyak> i read external sensors with MCU, and send send the data with CC110L
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<nicksydney> question...i've seen dev board (mainly ARM based Cortex A9/A8) with LVDS connector does this mean that it is possible to connect LVDS board such as this http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Controller-Board-DIY-Kit-RTD2270L-Driver-LVDS-Inverter-Turn-LCD-to-Monitor-/110925504614 to the board ?
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<wpwrak> nicksydney: the etching is a bit rough but the board should be quite usable. good progress !
<wpwrak> Luke-Jr: define "usable" :)
<Luke-Jr> wpwrak: routable IPv6 link? ☺
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<nicksydney> wpwrak: got a question
<nicksydney> managed to soldered all the component
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<nicksydney> this is the schematic http://postimg.org/image/alfjpod1n/ .... what i've used different is wpwrak R1 i don't have 150K so i used 100K while the rest are still the same D1, D2 and D3 I've used Schootky Rectifier 500ma 30V and i use the the input voltage (using battery) at around 5.6V and I'm getting reading of 28V
<nicksydney> according to datasheet http://postimg.org/image/4nx1cd8gb/ with the formula stated that i calculate i should be getting around 13V but i'm getting 28V am i missing something or is it because the diode is rated at 30V ?
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<wpwrak> diode rating only determines how high it can go
<nicksydney> damn it! so that means I've done something wrong
<wpwrak> and 20 V looks about right
<nicksydney> i'm getting 28V
<nicksydney> that's way too high isn't it ?
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<wpwrak> that's some ugly soldering ...
<nicksydney> yeah i know :)
<wpwrak> did you use flux at all ?
<nicksydney> lots of flux
<wpwrak> then the temperature of your iron was too low
<wpwrak> you had trouble getting the tin to liquify, didn't you ?
<nicksydney> yeah the iron was at 350C
<whitequark> whoa
<wpwrak> 350 C should be plenty
<wpwrak> but maybe what you set isn't what it does :)
<nicksydney> yeah perhaps this is china soldering station so can't trust it too much
<wpwrak> did you have trouble getting the tin to liquify ? despite these 350 C
<nicksydney> since i don't have osc what's best way to debug the problem ?
<nicksydney> yeah it was bit slow to liquify
<wpwrak> one hint: always have a bit of tin on the tip of the iron, that will conduct the heat
<wpwrak> (slow) so i read the scratch marks right ;-)
<wpwrak> can you set the iron hotter ?
<nicksydney> the max is 480 so can set to max
<wpwrak> well, try that
<wpwrak> solder joints should be smooth
<wpwrak> your look as if you had tossed liquid metal into water
<wpwrak> now, i don't know whether temperature is your problem or something else
<wpwrak> so you may burn up something at 400 C. i hope you have spare parts :)
<nicksydney> so you mean the problem could be because of solder joint ?
<wpwrak> the soldering is sufficiently chaotic that i can't tell whether you have connections or not
<wpwrak> and of course, say, R1 is not connected, you can get pretty much anything
<wpwrak> speaking oif which, where is R1 ?
<nicksydney> the one that says 103
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<wpwrak> and the one that says is 104 ?
<nicksydney> that's 100K
<wpwrak> err, the one that says 104 is R2 ?
<nicksydney> R2
<nicksydney> yeah
<wpwrak> so R1 is 10k and R2 is 100k ?
<wpwrak> and now 150k/10k as in the schematics ?
<nicksydney> sorry R2 the one with 103 and R1 is with the one 104
<wpwrak> so you should get about 13.6 V
<nicksydney> yeah that's what i thought but i'm getting 28V :(
<nicksydney> crap ! :(
<wpwrak> what's that white thing ? C2 ?
<nicksydney> yeah that's 22pf
<wpwrak> can you measure the resistance across the resistors ? could be that one is shorted
<wpwrak> measure in both directions. the more correct result is the higher of the two
<wpwrak> also, since you have large capacitors, wait until the measurement stabilizes
<nicksydney> the 103 resistor reads 1.23
<wpwrak> kOhm ? or Ohm ?
<nicksydney> 104 reads 11.28
<nicksydney> R2 = 103 = 10K
<nicksydney> R1 = 104 = 100K
<wpwrak> did you measure each both ways ? i.e., flipping the probes ?
<nicksydney> yup
<wpwrak> both readings are surprisingly low. especially that of R1
<wpwrak> but the readings were kOhm ? 1.23 kOhm and 11.28 kOhm ?
<wpwrak> ah, and don't measure at the chip directly. measure on the adjacent traces.
<nicksydney> hang on you mean measure the voltage across the resistor ?
<wpwrak> no, the resistance
<nicksydney> oh sorry that was the measurement for the voltage...let me do again
<wpwrak> and of course, with power and load disconnected
<nicksydney> ok no battery
<wpwrak> and nothing on the output either
<nicksydney> ok for R2....i switch the multimeter knob to 20k and the reading i get 9.8
<wpwrak> excellent
<nicksydney> and for R1 the multimeter knob is on 200k and the reading i get 2 different reading....68 and 92/93
<nicksydney> 2 reading with different switch probe
<wpwrak> okay, that's also good
<wpwrak> the 68 kOhm probably includes current going through the diode
<wpwrak> you can now search for flaws further away from the components. test conductivity across the same net ("wire" in kicad) from component pin to component pin
<wpwrak> e.g., TPS1.SW(1) to D1.A, L1.left, usw.
<wpwrak> maybe something isn't connected
<wpwrak> if you see a possible short, also check that
<nicksydney> ok i'll try that
<wpwrak> also, don't spend too much time trying to fix it. sometimes something weird goes wrong. then it's often easier to just make a new board.
<wpwrak> (and you can improve your soldering in the process, too :)
<nicksydney> how do you measure capacitor to see if it is functioning properly ?
<nicksydney> in terms of wiring is the layout correct http://postimg.org/image/pokq99okt/ ?
<nicksydney> if i measure from the marked location http://postimg.org/image/4gs08nufh/ i'm getting 28V
<nicksydney> but....
<nicksydney> using this picture http://postimg.org/image/ujvf4e1lv/ if i put the GND of multimeter to GND of batter and the red probe I touch the other pad (red circle) i get reading of 13.60 while if i move the red probe to the blue circle i get reading of -14.9
<nicksydney> could it be i measure it in the wrong location ?
<nicksydney> hmmm..14.9 + 13.6 approx 28.5
<nicksydney> wpwrak: what you think ?
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<wpwrak> hmm, the right point is your negative outout
<wpwrak> so the first one should yield about 2*13.6 V
<wpwrak> so it appears that your circuit is working after all. you just have to measure correctly :)
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<nicksydney> wpwrak: when you say negative output which one ?
<nicksydney> wpwrak: for sanity sake can you tell me whether this is correct and i'm doing it the right way ......... this picture http://postimg.org/image/p45xrpjzn/ with the setup described on the pic i get +13.60v ... this picture with the setup described http://postimg.org/image/k8trzrsxt/ i get -14.9V and last with this picture with the setup described in the picture http://postimg.org/image/ffomxgnxz/ i'm getting 28v
<nicksydney> was chatting with you at 2am don't know whether i was awake or asleep so thought of doing it with the description in the picture to make it easier for me to stay sane :))