<viric>
wpwrak: the trend is to provide links with random-like strings
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<wpwrak>
i kinda like the old-school way of doing things :)
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<DocScrutinizer05>
wpwrak: you seen my comments on anelok?
<DocScrutinizer05>
aah i missed your answers
<DocScrutinizer05>
sorry
<DocScrutinizer05>
wpwrak: (belt stickytape) however I meant with paint on inside, and that could look pretty cool when you use thin high glossy black tape
<DocScrutinizer05>
or even Alu stcky tape
<DocScrutinizer05>
can#t see how this would look crappy or cheap
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<DocScrutinizer05>
for the sandpapering and polishing of milled inner side of windows, I already wondered how the hell you gonna accomplish that
<DocScrutinizer05>
high transparent acrylic varnish, rather than sandpaper and polish paste?
<DocScrutinizer05>
for the inside of the window, that is
<DocScrutinizer05>
heck, maybe even silicone oil to directly bridge the air gap to the OLED display?
<DocScrutinizer05>
depending on optical "density" of the materials, this might result in a 100% clean and transparent view to the OLED pixels
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<wpwrak>
(tape) don't forget that there are two walls at that place: the half-case and then the other. the inside of the inner wall is painted black. the problem is that the outside of the inner wall and the inside of the outer wall are rough and reflect light.
<DocScrutinizer05>
err
<wpwrak>
(display) the problem isn't the air gap but the roughness of the inner surface. some oil would probably solve that, but then i'd have to worry about oil leaks :)
<DocScrutinizer05>
what are you talking about now? the display window or the "belt"?
<DocScrutinizer05>
aah
<DocScrutinizer05>
(belt)
<wpwrak>
1st was the belt. 2nd was the display
<DocScrutinizer05>
(belt) you won't see any of that anyway?
<DocScrutinizer05>
since the tape covers it
<wpwrak>
so the tape would be on the outside ?
<DocScrutinizer05>
sure
<wpwrak>
ah, but then it would be very noticeable. i mean, even paint is quite noticeable
<DocScrutinizer05>
just like packaging tape across the flaps of a paper box
<wpwrak>
even the nice and shiny one :)
<wpwrak>
naw, it's tape on some extremely smooth plastic
<DocScrutinizer05>
yes, the idea is it's looking so nice it MUST be noticeable
<wpwrak>
even dust looks like a mountain there ;)
<DocScrutinizer05>
I'm talking about extremely thin and high glossy black foil stickytape
<wpwrak>
hmm, and where would i find that ?
<DocScrutinizer05>
I couldn't think of a shinier surface
<DocScrutinizer05>
3M? Scotch?
<DocScrutinizer05>
Silver one is probably even easier to find
<DocScrutinizer05>
for black one I can only think of stickers at bottom of every other PSU etc
<DocScrutinizer05>
usually black with silver printing on it, actually completely silver though with black printing
<DocScrutinizer05>
they are typically the thickness of the brown packing tape "tesa paketband"
<wpwrak>
mmh, my question is more about which industry supplier may have such tapes. they're certainly not the sort you find at the stationary shop
<DocScrutinizer05>
yes, you need to google a bit for such stuff
<DocScrutinizer05>
probably you could order it at label printers
<DocScrutinizer05>
or similar suppliers
<DocScrutinizer05>
generally sticker/label manufacturers
<DocScrutinizer05>
deco shops might also have such stuff
<wpwrak>
i don't see such stuff around here. even finding decent double-sided tape is kinda difficult
<DocScrutinizer05>
o.O
<wpwrak>
i can imagine what you're talking about, though :)
<DocScrutinizer05>
well, you probably need to order it via internet then
<wpwrak>
hm, i think i'll try to get things done with the "white" band. for the y-box, a tape may indeed work (if i can find it). but the anelok prototype, needs to be opened from time to time (battery and memory card change). a tape would make this messy.
<wpwrak>
"Plotterfolie": impressive range of surfaces
<DocScrutinizer05>
yes
<wpwrak>
if all else fails, i can always use electrical tape :)
<DocScrutinizer05>
that looks really crappy and dull
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<DocScrutinizer05>
particularly non-plane surface, it has amazing "impurities"
<DocScrutinizer05>
and way too thick
<DocScrutinizer05>
I think scotchtape is about maximum thickness you could use before it gets nasty where the tape's edgets are exposed
<DocScrutinizer05>
unless you use 15 layers and it adds up to a solid 0.7mm belt around the whole thing ;-)
<wpwrak>
it gets thinner when you stretch it :)
<wpwrak>
(the electrical tape)
<DocScrutinizer05>
yeah, and smaller
<wpwrak>
but yes, very dull
<DocScrutinizer05>
well, I'm undecided if I even should suggest it since I think it might look crappy as well: there is that 0.1mm pure alu sticky tape
<DocScrutinizer05>
you can find that at Conrad et al
<DocScrutinizer05>
or maybe use copper instead of alu? ;-P
<DocScrutinizer05>
at least the alu tape you could cut open the device with a sharp cutter again, splicing the tape in the middle into two smaller halves
<DocScrutinizer05>
would create a rather clean gap between your case upper and lower half
<wpwrak>
naw, the tape, if there's to be any tape at all, should be invisible
<DocScrutinizer05>
that's not possible
<DocScrutinizer05>
it will be always visible
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<wpwrak>
but i think i can get an okay effect with just avoiding paint on the "belt". it looks fine if it's consistent. just looks bad if it comes and goes.
<DocScrutinizer05>
and the whole purpose is it actually *is* visible, so it can cover the nasty parts along your "collision" zone between upper and lower half of case
<wpwrak>
yes, tape will always look as something added. while some odd color change on the inside can look intentional :)
<wpwrak>
i.e., "DON'T make it look like an accident" ;-)
<DocScrutinizer05>
exactly
<DocScrutinizer05>
really shiny belt might look like the icing on top of the acrylic design
<DocScrutinizer05>
brushed alu would look really nice
<DocScrutinizer05>
exact height of the case, ending flush on top and bottom acrylic transparent surface with that black inside it
<wpwrak>
yeah, pretty and quite impossible :)
<DocScrutinizer05>
the glossy alu stickytape might work as well, but probably won't have a proper surface
<DocScrutinizer05>
impossible? how?
<wpwrak>
if it's flush with the edge, then it'll also be exposed to friction. so it'll separate very quickly
<DocScrutinizer05>
nah
<DocScrutinizer05>
get some of that sturdy alu sticky
<wpwrak>
oh yes. i wouldn't even want paint at the place. maybe epoxy paint, which is nearly indestructible. but then i don't have the tools for that.
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<DocScrutinizer05>
ok, when I get really bored, I will search for my alu sticky and a matchbox and show you what it could look like. But not this week
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<wpwrak>
hehe :) i made cases with paint on the inside, on the outside, and mixed, and the difference is just enormous. with the paint on the inside, it looks almost like some iJunk ;-)
<DocScrutinizer05>
btw when you're extremely worried about the tape edges exposed, do a 0.2mm recession from top-1mm til bottom+1mm all around the case
<wpwrak>
i can't do recessions with that sort of precision
<DocScrutinizer05>
:-/
<wpwrak>
i often have to sand off some 0.5 mm of horizontal mismatch. it's weird, since all the rest is much better. but on the outside, weird things happen. probably the parts are too small for the fixing tape to hold them in place well enough.
<DocScrutinizer05>
use magnets
<DocScrutinizer05>
o/
<wpwrak>
i was more thinking of the pressure coming from some neutrino flow :)
<wpwrak>
let's say, generated by vaguely waving my hand above the mill
<DocScrutinizer05>
yeah, pretty hard to build such stuff when the shops not even have ds-sticky and probably no decent workbench in vicinity
<DocScrutinizer05>
I'd probably contact my carpenter friend, he's used to planing and milling to the 0.1mm precision
<DocScrutinizer05>
I heard in USA the required precision is ~5mm
<DocScrutinizer05>
I'd build me a 2 or 3 fixtures where the part fits in tightly