kyak changed the topic of #qi-hardware to: Copyleft hardware - http://qi-hardware.com | hardware hackers join here to discuss Ben NanoNote, atben/atusb 802.15.4 wireless, anelok and other community driven hw projects | public logging at http://en.qi-hardware.com/irclogs and http://irclog.whitequark.org/qi-hardware
<wpwrak> first post, posted :)
<wpwrak> ah, now i get the <title>. literally, what goes there.
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<wpwrak> neat ! even has the logo :)
<wpwrak> the bad thing about having powerful CAD system (solvespace) and a 3d printer (much quicker and painless turn-around than milling) is that one gets ambitious and wants to fix minor flaws right away, instead of postponing fixing them
<whitequark> I actually just got a 3d printer and found it incredibly painful to use
<whitequark> in fact I wasn't successful in getting a single print from it
<whitequark> with a mill, at least you know where you're fucked. with a printer? "it doesn't stick", now good luck figuring that out
<wpwrak> aah yes, read a lot about such problems ;-)
<wpwrak> does your printer have a heated build plate ?
<whitequark> yes
<whitequark> prusa bed mk2b plus glass
<wpwrak> excellent
<wpwrak> did you apply hair spray to the glass before printing ?
<whitequark> hair what?
<whitequark> I cleaned the glass with acetone
<whitequark> (and I'm printing with PLA)
<wpwrak> the stuff many people use for fixing hair
<whitequark> what happens is PLA gets squished onto the glass and then it just comes off
<whitequark> right after the nozzle leaves
<wpwrak> PLA is good to get started. very forgiving.
<wpwrak> yup, insufficient adhesion. you need a strong hair spray on that plate.
<wpwrak> after that, you'll complain that your prints won't come off :)
<whitequark> I've had multiple people tell me that PLA shouldn't come off either clean glass, or painter's tape on that glass
<whitequark> yet it doesn't even try to adhere
<wpwrak> the trick for that is to put the mirror in the freezer. pla and glass contract differently, breaking the pla-hair spray-glass bond. then the prints come off easily
<whitequark> another issue is the output of slicer seems broken in inexplicable ways
<wpwrak> maybe people just let enough crud accumulate on the glass that the pla eventually does stick :)
<wpwrak> using slic3r ?
<whitequark> yes
<whitequark> when I issue gcodes manually, I can extrude a trail of plastic (that comes off glass)
<whitequark> when I use slic3r, gcode looks right but nothing actually gets extruded
<wpwrak> i found it a tad frustrating, too. switched to cura. cura is a slug but the paths tend to be pretty good.
<wpwrak> ah yes, i had slic3r do that, too
<whitequark> oh?
<whitequark> what's the deal with it?
<wpwrak> dunno. the regular version worked, but the prusa edition didn't. i just gave up and continued with cura.
<whitequark> I'm using the one from apt
<wpwrak> i don't think i ever tried that one. chances are it's obsolete :)
<wpwrak> anyway, the cure to your build plate adhesion should be hair spray. like the red one in this group: http://www.distribuidoramoron.com/eshop/image/cache/data/pack_spray-500x554.jpg
<wpwrak> i.e., the strongest/stickiest
<wpwrak> the PLA can also fail to stick if the print head is too high, if the temperature is widely off, or if the flow is too low. but i'd try hair spray first.
<wpwrak> meh, wildly off, of course
<wpwrak> what nozzle diameter does your printer have ?
<whitequark> hm, the print head is approximately one paper thickness above the glass
<whitequark> the temp is 65°C on the bed, 185°C on the nozzle, also I tried higher
<whitequark> this one is a 0.4mm nozzle, with 1.75mm filament
<wpwrak> temperature sounds good. the paper height ... when the head is "down", it shouldn't be possible to move the paper (without tearing). unless the head is very clean, in which case it's okay if you feel the resistance but can move it
<whitequark> hm
<whitequark> well I just cleaned the head by immersing it in acetone and wiping it thoroughly
<wpwrak> if using cura, you'll find that it won't let you set the nozzle size to 0.4 mm. so you have to fake it by changing line width (to 0.4 mm) and flow from 100% to 130%. it's not super-criticial to get these right, but once i found out that i had to change the flow, too, a lot of smaler problems vanished
<wpwrak> if in doubt about the head height, you can just adjust it down a little. if it's a little to low, the bottom layer will be "fat", but you can fix that later
<whitequark> hm, cura actually has an UI that's not outright broken on my PC, that's a good sign
<whitequark> cura let me set the nozzle dia to 0.4mm btw
<wpwrak> oh, and you should enable a "skirt". that way, you're sure to have a positive flow by the time it gets to the actual print
<whitequark> 21.04, downloaded from the apt repos on the official website
<wpwrak> does it also stay at 0.4 mm ? :)
<whitequark> yes
<wpwrak> hmm, literally "21.04" ? the numbers should be 2.1, ..., 2.4. i'm at 2.4
<wpwrak> this is what my version looks like: http://downloads.qi-hardware.com/people/werner/tmp/cura.png
<wpwrak> older versions had a different arrangement of the GUI
<whitequark> that looks completely unlike my cura
<wpwrak> heh, thought so :) i think the inability to set the nozzle diameter is a "new feature"
<wpwrak> i even found a post where they "explain" why it is bad if you want that. the day job of whoever wrote that piece may be in the ministry of abundance and transparency of north korea ...
<wpwrak> anyway, also the old one is supposed to work well. and it's said to produce significantly faster gcode.
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<whitequark> wpwrak: alright, thanks for the suggestion
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<wpwrak> did it work ?
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<whitequark> wpwrak: don't know, no hair spray
<wpwrak> cosmetics shops turn out to be surprisingly useful when 3d-printing ;-)
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<whitequark> yeah but that requires me to go out of the house and/or to be awake at day
<whitequark> that's hard y'know
<wpwrak> yeah, i know the sheer suckishness of that. but ... don't you actually have 24/7 shops ? you're in hkg, right ?
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<whitequark> nope
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<wpwrak> ah, thought you had moved there. so you're still in .ru ?
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