kyak changed the topic of #qi-hardware to: Copyleft hardware - http://qi-hardware.com | hardware hackers join here to discuss Ben NanoNote, atben/atusb 802.15.4 wireless, anelok and other community driven hw projects | public logging at http://en.qi-hardware.com/irclogs and http://irclog.whitequark.org/qi-hardware
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<arossdotme> im not so sure that the Samsung cells are right for a few amp constant load looking at the review on that site
<whitequark> a few amp is generally not a problem for cells
<whitequark> once you're looking at >5A or 10A you start having problems
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<wpwrak> eintopf: on the topic of fixing monitors by swapping capacitors: the important parameters are capacitance, voltage, and mechanical compatibility
<wpwrak> if you can't get the right capacitance or voltage, you can always use some larger value. you may be able to get away with slightly smaller values than the original, too, but you'd be taking chances.
<wpwrak> size increases with capacitance and voltage, so this limits how far you can exceed the original values.
<eintopf> I think I need these, but I better lookup again which capacitance they use
<eintopf> and I don't do experimenting stuff :D
<eintopf> just replace the same values
<wpwrak> pcb looks familiar :)
<eintopf> pcb?
<wpwrak> the board
<wpwrak> the values are written on the caps. very easy to find those values :)
<eintopf> yes, there is no unknown stuff on the board
<eintopf> it's very open hardware friendly if you have the chance to open it
<eintopf> -> Problem: Blinking power led, the display do not start properly. The main reason is the capacitors of internal power supply.
<eintopf> exact my problem
<wpwrak> now, you have to be careful about size. first, of course, you want to make sure the contacts have the same arrangement. those caps usually have them on one side, but there are also caps that have one on either side. you want to make sure you pick the right one.
<wpwrak> if the original size isn't available, then you may be able to use something bigger, but you have to check the available space first
<wpwrak> i'd also check for burnt components. e.g., on my two problem monitors, i have various spots and components that look overheated. so i'm not sure just fixing caps will solve the problems.
<wpwrak> also, you don't need to replace all the caps, just the ones that look defective. you can tell by looking at their top. if it bulges to the outside or has even ruptured, the cap needs replacing
<wpwrak> if the top is nice and flat it's probably okay
<eintopf> yes ok.
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<eintopf> and the sizes, I solder them out and take them to the electronic market
<eintopf> and say the people "I need exact the same but not from china pls"
<eintopf> okay, I mean with china, not the cheapest parts
<eintopf> which are available
<eintopf> I think they all comming from china
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<xiangfu> wpwrak: Hello
<eintopf> hi
<eintopf> one of them
<wpwrak> xiangfu: heya !
<eintopf> I have all
<eintopf> maybe I should open the case at first and look into
<wpwrak> eintopf: yageo is also a reputable company. so there's a chance they will last a little longer
<eintopf> ok
<wpwrak> eintopf: yes, open the case, take pictures, check if there's anything else that looks bad, write down all the values
<eintopf> they have all what I need from yageo
<wpwrak> eintopf: in any case, you want to see which parts actually need replacing. you don't have to replace just everything. some caps will be perfectly fine.
<wpwrak> xiangfu: how's life ? :)
<eintopf> wpwrak: okay, I know what you mean
<wpwrak> eintopf: when you look at the picture of that cap from conrad you can see the lines on the top. looks a bit like a peace sign
<wpwrak> ah yes, that :)
<eintopf> I had some printer, then i heard some "puff and zzzzsss"
<eintopf> I think then the elko was exploding
<eintopf> btw: it doesn't work after that again
<eintopf> I just needed the stepper motors from that printer
<xiangfu> wpwrak: We order 10 of N900, we will receive them next week.
<xiangfu> wpwrak: I am trying to order 250 of them. but it really depends. but I THINK i can make it 50 in next week.
<xiangfu> wpwrak: The link you sent to me. they don't ship to China. :(
<xiangfu> not sure if they are real or not. they reply the us. they just don't ship to China
<eintopf> stupid question: can I measure elkos with a multimeter?
<larsc> to find out the max voltage, just increase it, once it starts to smoke you found it
<eintopf> I meant the capacitity
<larsc> to get the capacity charge it up and then discharge over resistor and measure the time it takes to discharge
<larsc> some multimeters might support this
<eintopf> ah, ok.
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<eintopf> I have that
<eintopf> ohh, I know RC thing from study
<eintopf> "low pass filter"
<larsc> the datasheet says it can measure capacitance
<wpwrak> xiangfu: sounds great ! are all those from the same source or different sources ?
<eintopf> yes, 40/400 nF/4/40/100 µF, ± 3 %
<eintopf> but elko's? I thought the small ceramic one only
<eintopf> but I can't put the cermaic one into a normal power supply
<larsc> if it is larger than 100uF it can't I guess
<wpwrak> xiangfu: (don't ship to china) interesting :) but their whole shipping arrangement looked a little odd, so perhaps that isn't surprising
<eintopf> ah, ok.
<eintopf> so if I solder some damage elko, I will measure the capacity... just because I can
<eintopf> and then check
<wpwrak> eintopf: you'd need something like this: https://www.conrad.de/de/komponententester-voltcraft-lcr-100-101392.html
<wpwrak> or you can just charge the cap to a known voltage, add a resistor to the terminals, measure the time it takes to discharge to a certain voltage, then do the math :)
<eintopf> I think I just replace the ugly looking caps
<wpwrak> yup, you can't go wrong with that :)
<eintopf> I think I will cleanup my second workspace (currently there is a papercraft stardestroyer project) and then open the monitor
<eintopf> I will take pictures for you!
<eintopf> I open the case
<eintopf> two little pieces are falling down from the case :(
<eintopf> I think it will hold without it
<eintopf> another thing got broken
<eintopf> some cable connector safety mechanism
<eintopf> I thought I helped a little bit with a screwdriver
<eintopf> but it was to much
<wpwrak> ah, try not to break connectors :)
<eintopf> wpwrak: do you think it's okay?
<eintopf> when I put it into that again
<wpwrak> not sure about the caps. maybe try to have them in focus ?
<wpwrak> i guess the connector will be fine
<eintopf> two of them (at another position looks fine) but these five I need to replace them
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<wpwrak> ah yes, they look rather suspicious
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<eintopf> wpwrak: i have solder them all out
<eintopf> it think i heat my fingers too
<eintopf> was difficult :(
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<wpwrak> yeah, properly cooking one's own fingers can be tricky :)
<eintopf> no the last one was most difficult
<eintopf> and I hope I added no new other connections
<eintopf> I go to into the city now
<eintopf> and buy the missing parts
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<eintopf> I have all parts
<wpwrak> now the fun begins :)
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<wpwrak> pretty :) and now, the fireworks !
<eintopf> done
<eintopf> I try to connect it with power
<wpwrak> whoa ! what was that flash at the horizon ?
<eintopf> it works
<eintopf> but I got a little shock
<eintopf> when I touched the power button
<eintopf> now I have fear
<wpwrak> (works) great ! (shock) leave it turned on :)
<eintopf> thank you all
<eintopf> now I am not frustrated anymore each morning when starting the pc
<eintopf> or comming back when the monitor was in sleep mode
<eintopf> took 5 minutes to bring some picture
<eintopf> now I need to clean the screen
<eintopf> I put it again on the vesa connector
<eintopf> need to readjust the vesa connector tomorrow
<eintopf> but it works
<eintopf> and picture is somewhat better than before
<wpwrak> nice bonus :)
<eintopf> now I want to repair more monitors
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