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<wpwrak>
paul: a bit of soldering goes a long way with that kind of things :)
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<DocScrutinizer05>
diarything: a mechanical switch has two properties limiting the current it can cope with: the R_on resistance formed by the contact points and leads, which is in the range of milliohms and must not cause a significant warming of the switch. The second factor is electric arcing when opening the switch which will cause immediate destruction when the switch can't stop it. Usually a switch can handle significantly more current while
<DocScrutinizer05>
closed than when/during opening it. The ratio however is usually undefined, I'd not assume more than factor 10 or max factor 20
<DocScrutinizer05>
5/80 sounds like factor 15 and thus makes sense to me
<erichvk_>
DC vs AC
<DocScrutinizer05>
16* sorry
<DocScrutinizer05>
DC vs AC is *somewhat* related but not factor 20
<erichvk_>
yeah
<DocScrutinizer05>
5/80 might be voltage rating DC/AC
<DocScrutinizer05>
to stop/extinguish the arc, the current and thus the voltage must drop under a certain amount for a certain time
<DocScrutinizer05>
if that 5/80 rating is actually not explicitly Ampere, it probably means voltage needs to drop below 5V for that switch to extinguish arc, and for a 80V 50Hz sine wave the duration the voltage is below 5V around zero crossing is long enough to achieve same effect
<DocScrutinizer05>
to make long story short and correct my blabla of above: the current rating of a mech switch is determined by R_on while the arcing determines the max *voltage* (which obviously differs between AC and DC, for the reasons I just explained)
<DocScrutinizer05>
you can't use a miniature switch rated at a few ampere to run a load across it that eats dozens of ampere. You might want to add a MOSFET, some of those can handle up to a 1000A in an incredibly small formfactor
<DocScrutinizer05>
I still fail to understand completely the >>reset bms for lipo battery by disconecting battery cus my lipo charger does not like having the main battery wire being disconnected. it refuses to charge the battery but the bms needs to be charged to reset!<< description
<diarything>
ive come to the conclusion that ya these 5/80A switches are not suitable for the current :)
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<diarything>
its a 300wh batt, so at 80A its not going to last long ;)
<diarything>
i guess with a mosfet, there would be a constant little bit of current being eaten up :/
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<diarything>
unless i use it as a on switch instead of a disconnect switch but then the coulomb counter wont work if its not constantly connected and powered up to the batt.
<diarything>
using a mosfet for the on switch
<diarything>
hmm i think i need to remind me self a bit more about mosfets again
<diarything>
currently ive ended up using a screw down banana like post but without the socket for the banna plug. thing and a wire with a err tag, flat metal thing on the end. its compact, can take the current and with no load, i can faily safely disconnect batt and reset bms
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<paul_boddie>
wpwrak: I might try the aluminium foil solution for the serial console given my level of soldering expertise.
<wpwrak>
paul_boddie: meh, this is really easy to solder. maybe time for you to move up one level :)
<paul_boddie>
I live in a country where you cannot readily buy flux as far as I have found, unless you want plumbing quantities.
<paul_boddie>
So the simple approach might be good enough. I only need it to see if my kernel is booting (or why it isn't).
<wpwrak>
(no flux) you moved to the roman empire ? :)
<paul_boddie>
Well, the Romans did have genuine plumbing. :-)
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<paul_boddie>
Any progress on any of your projects recently? World domination within reach, perhaps?
<erichvk__>
Pliny discussed the importance of lead/tin ratios for effective soldering in 79AD
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<wpwrak>
if you dig deep enough, you'll probably find a detailed discussion of the virtues of lead-free solder somewhere in the works of Empedocles :)
<wpwrak>
paul: and not much progress on anelok at the moment. i have some ideas for enabling it to also act as cryptocoin wallet and i've researched new components for that, but haven't designed a new prototype for that yet.
<wpwrak>
1 GHz MIPS, 32 MB or 64 MB RAM, and costs less than the critters i have in anelok at the moment ;)
<paul_boddie>
Ah, the X1000. I think they even make the programming manual available, too.
<paul_boddie>
But where are these things available? Not that I'm a buyer or have the expertise to make boards.
<wpwrak>
you have to buy directly from ingenic. moq 110. the X1000 (32 MB) is USD 3.0 and the X1000E (64 MB) is USD 3.8.
<wpwrak>
(programming manual) haven't seen that one yet for the X1000. but they have a kernel they seem to update pretty regularly. so that's at least something.
<paul_boddie>
Maybe only the XBurst MXU stuff as a manual for the X1000. I was thinking of the M100/M200 and others.
<paul_boddie>
They got better at releasing the manuals. The MIPS CI20 may have helped get the JZ4780 manual out and the ball rolling.
<wpwrak>
yes, the others have nearly complete manuals. the only thing i haven't found anywhere is the signed/encrypted boot. so getting that out of ingenic is still on my to do list.
<wpwrak>
ah, and another part i'd like but haven't been able to source yet is a finger print sensor. ideally, it would also be able to act as slider. kill two birds with one stone :) but you can either get sensors without specs from aliexpress, or get ignored by the manufacturers.
<wpwrak>
and DIY projects with fingerprint sensors all seem to use monstrous modules, generations behind today's technology
<paul_boddie>
I have to say that having messed around with PIC32MX, such Ingenic stuff seems more interesting.
<paul_boddie>
Although not as "maker-friendly" due to the packaging. But at least it has a MMU, I presume, unlike all the mainstream ARM/MIPS microcontrollers.
<wpwrak>
(x1000) you can also get a module. that one should be pretty easy to solder and adds wlan and bluetooth. http://www.ingenic.com/en/?newton/id/12.html
<paul_boddie>
I hadn't really looked at their boards, but they seem quite decent!
<wpwrak>
but my main DIY project these days is building a proper lighting system for my apartment. that's been pending for many years, because i didn't feel to comfortable working with mains voltage. but it turns out that much of the LED technology operates at 12 V. problem solved :)
<wpwrak>
so the idea is to use 1 m rails with a bunch of LEDs inside (13-18 W/m), then add a 802.15.4-based controller to each. hook up the whole thing to 12 V, et voila, a nice modular solution.
<wpwrak>
first i tried to build something with an off-the shelf controller, but a) that one is for controlling a lot of leds, making the thing non-modular, and b) the MCU in there is quite poor (a 8051 clone). it works, though. so i won't have to sit in the dark until i get around to making that modular system :)
<paul_boddie>
Sounds a bit too hi-tech for me! But I agree about the MCU.
<wpwrak>
(high-tech) naw, the modular controller is actually quite simple: an ATSAMR21E16A (ARM + 802.15.4 transceiver), three FETs, and a voltage regulator. shouldn't take more than a weekend to get that to work.
<wpwrak>
and maybe make a nice remote control the next weekend :) jog wheel + OLED + CR2032 + ATSAMR21E16A, with the first three parts already exhaustively researched for anelok.
<erichvk__>
would the 802.15-4 aspect give neighbours insights into your habits?
<erichvk__>
we have a 48V battery bank here. Plan is din rail mounted relays controlling light fixtures on a star topology. No phantom loads when off. Switch plates are also on a star topology.
<paul_boddie>
I think the ATSAM stuff may be the future for Microchip. Apparently, their MIPS product evolution stalled somewhat.
<erichvk__>
some of the "smart home" setups like c-bus use ~.4W per switch plate, multiplied by usual number of switch plates in house equals energy consumption of a refrigerator, before the lights are even turned on..
<wpwrak>
erichvk__: well, it can observe most of my lighting habits without too much difficulty from the street :)
<erichvk__>
ah, that other part of the EM spectrum
<wpwrak>
but if i was really paranoid, i could create periodic idle traffic so you couldn't tell when i'm sending commands. but, meh :)
<erichvk__>
curtains provide tempest hardening I guess
<wpwrak>
(btw, the main reason for wanting to go modular is that my living room really needs two banks of light sources, some 6 m apart. and coordinating them can only benefit from having a bit of intelligence in the controllers.)
<erichvk__>
fair enough
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<paul_boddie>
wpwrak: So, did you get one of those X1000 boards?
<wpwrak>
not yet. i sent them a purchase order a few weeks ago but they never responded. so i'll have to try again.
<wpwrak>
sadly, there's no ali-key :)
<paul_boddie>
Do you still do much with the Ben or similar hardware?
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