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2013-11-25 14:25 <larsc> best is to send a patch that fixes the problem ;)
2013-11-25 14:25 <pcercuei> if I can find it, yes
2013-11-25 14:26 <pcercuei> but I have no serial line soldered so I can't even see the beginning of the call trace of the kernel panic
2013-11-25 14:26 <larsc> otherwise always send the mail to both the maintainer and the mailinglist
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2013-11-25 18:49 <wpwrak> nice visualization (the link is kinda self-explaining): http://mattmckeon.com/facebook-privacy/
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2013-11-25 22:18 <viric> wpwrak: the trend is to provide links with random-like strings
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2013-11-25 22:33 <wpwrak> i kinda like the old-school way of doing things :)
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2013-11-25 22:50 <DocScrutinizer05> wpwrak: you seen my comments on anelok?
2013-11-25 22:52 <DocScrutinizer05> aah i missed your answers
2013-11-25 22:52 <DocScrutinizer05> sorry
2013-11-25 22:54 <DocScrutinizer05> wpwrak: (belt stickytape) however I meant with paint on inside, and that could look pretty cool when you use thin high glossy black tape
2013-11-25 22:55 <DocScrutinizer05> or even Alu stcky tape
2013-11-25 22:55 <DocScrutinizer05> can#t see how this would look crappy or cheap
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2013-11-25 22:56 <DocScrutinizer05> for the sandpapering and polishing of milled inner side of windows, I already wondered how the hell you gonna accomplish that
2013-11-25 22:57 <DocScrutinizer05> high transparent acrylic varnish, rather than sandpaper and polish paste?
2013-11-25 22:57 <DocScrutinizer05> for the inside of the window, that is
2013-11-25 22:58 <DocScrutinizer05> heck, maybe even silicone oil to directly bridge the air gap to the OLED display?
2013-11-25 22:59 <DocScrutinizer05> depending on optical "density" of the materials, this might result in a 100% clean and transparent view to the OLED pixels
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2013-11-25 23:01 <wpwrak> (tape) don't forget that there are two walls at that place: the half-case and then the other. the inside of the inner wall is painted black. the problem is that the outside of the inner wall and the inside of the outer wall are rough and reflect light.
2013-11-25 23:01 <DocScrutinizer05> err
2013-11-25 23:02 <wpwrak> (display) the problem isn't the air gap but the roughness of the inner surface. some oil would probably solve that, but then i'd have to worry about oil leaks :)
2013-11-25 23:02 <DocScrutinizer05> what are you talking about now? the display window or the "belt"?
2013-11-25 23:02 <DocScrutinizer05> aah
2013-11-25 23:02 <DocScrutinizer05> (belt)
2013-11-25 23:02 <wpwrak> 1st was the belt. 2nd was the display
2013-11-25 23:03 <DocScrutinizer05> (belt) you won't see any of that anyway?
2013-11-25 23:03 <DocScrutinizer05> since the tape covers it
2013-11-25 23:03 <wpwrak> so the tape would be on the outside ?
2013-11-25 23:03 <DocScrutinizer05> sure
2013-11-25 23:04 <wpwrak> ah, but then it would be very noticeable. i mean, even paint is quite noticeable
2013-11-25 23:04 <DocScrutinizer05> just like packaging tape across the flaps of a paper box
2013-11-25 23:04 <wpwrak> even the nice and shiny one :)
2013-11-25 23:05 <wpwrak> naw, it's tape on some extremely smooth plastic
2013-11-25 23:05 <DocScrutinizer05> yes, the idea is it's looking so nice it MUST be noticeable
2013-11-25 23:05 <wpwrak> even dust looks like a mountain there ;)
2013-11-25 23:06 <DocScrutinizer05> I'm talking about extremely thin and high glossy black foil stickytape
2013-11-25 23:06 <wpwrak> hmm, and where would i find that ?
2013-11-25 23:07 <DocScrutinizer05> I couldn't think of a shinier surface
2013-11-25 23:07 <DocScrutinizer05> 3M? Scotch?
2013-11-25 23:07 <DocScrutinizer05> Silver one is probably even easier to find
2013-11-25 23:08 <DocScrutinizer05> for black one I can only think of stickers at bottom of every other PSU etc
2013-11-25 23:08 <DocScrutinizer05> usually black with silver printing on it, actually completely silver though with black printing
2013-11-25 23:09 <DocScrutinizer05> they are typically the thickness of the brown packing tape "tesa paketband"
2013-11-25 23:09 <wpwrak> mmh, my question is more about which industry supplier may have such tapes. they're certainly not the sort you find at the stationary shop
2013-11-25 23:10 <DocScrutinizer05> yes, you need to google a bit for such stuff
2013-11-25 23:10 <DocScrutinizer05> probably you could order it at label printers
2013-11-25 23:10 <DocScrutinizer05> or similar suppliers
2013-11-25 23:11 <DocScrutinizer05> generally sticker/label manufacturers
2013-11-25 23:11 <DocScrutinizer05> deco shops might also have such stuff
2013-11-25 23:12 <wpwrak> i don't see such stuff around here. even finding decent double-sided tape is kinda difficult
2013-11-25 23:12 <DocScrutinizer05> o.O
2013-11-25 23:12 <wpwrak> i can imagine what you're talking about, though :)
2013-11-25 23:12 <DocScrutinizer05> well, you probably need to order it via internet then
2013-11-25 23:15 <wpwrak> hm, i think i'll try to get things done with the "white" band. for the y-box, a tape may indeed work (if i can find it). but the anelok prototype, needs to be opened from time to time (battery and memory card change). a tape would make this messy.
2013-11-25 23:16 <DocScrutinizer05> http://www.kohlstaedt.de/technologien/frontfolien.html?gclid=CPXV5peIgbsCFQ1L3god6A4AzA    http://www.living3000.de/shop/suche?q=folie%20deko&campid=5337337958
2013-11-25 23:16 <wpwrak> but it's good to have another fallback solution, because the ones i've tried this far don't convince me
2013-11-25 23:17 <DocScrutinizer05> yeah, this solution is not meant for any "user serviceable parts inside"
2013-11-25 23:17 <wpwrak> "Wand-Deko Gothic-Haus" hehe ;-)
2013-11-25 23:19 <DocScrutinizer05> http://www.decowoerner.com/de/Folien-1-2525.html
2013-11-25 23:19 <wpwrak> "Plotterfolie": impressive range of surfaces
2013-11-25 23:20 <DocScrutinizer05> yes
2013-11-25 23:21 <wpwrak> if all else fails, i can always use electrical tape :)
2013-11-25 23:22 <DocScrutinizer05> that looks really crappy and dull
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2013-11-25 23:22 <DocScrutinizer05> particularly non-plane surface, it has amazing "impurities"
2013-11-25 23:22 <DocScrutinizer05> and way too thick
2013-11-25 23:23 <DocScrutinizer05> I think scotchtape is about maximum thickness you could use before it gets nasty where the tape's edgets are exposed
2013-11-25 23:24 <DocScrutinizer05> unless you use 15 layers and it adds up to a solid 0.7mm belt around the whole thing ;-)
2013-11-25 23:24 <wpwrak> it gets thinner when you stretch it :)
2013-11-25 23:24 <wpwrak> (the electrical tape)
2013-11-25 23:24 <DocScrutinizer05> yeah, and smaller
2013-11-25 23:24 <wpwrak> but yes, very dull
2013-11-25 23:26 <DocScrutinizer05> well, I'm undecided if I even should suggest it since I think it might look crappy as well: there is that 0.1mm pure alu sticky tape
2013-11-25 23:27 <DocScrutinizer05> you can find that at Conrad et al
2013-11-25 23:27 <DocScrutinizer05> or maybe use copper instead of alu? ;-P
2013-11-25 23:29 <DocScrutinizer05> at least the alu tape you could cut open the device with a sharp cutter again, splicing the tape in the middle into two smaller halves
2013-11-25 23:29 <DocScrutinizer05> would create a rather clean gap between your case upper and lower half
2013-11-25 23:30 <wpwrak> naw, the tape, if there's to be any tape at all, should be invisible
2013-11-25 23:30 <DocScrutinizer05> that's not possible
2013-11-25 23:30 <DocScrutinizer05> it will be always visible
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2013-11-25 23:31 <wpwrak> but i think i can get an okay effect with just avoiding paint on the "belt". it looks fine if it's consistent. just looks bad if it comes and goes.
2013-11-25 23:31 <DocScrutinizer05> and the whole purpose is it actually *is* visible, so it can cover the nasty parts along your "collision" zone between upper and lower half of case
2013-11-25 23:32 <wpwrak> yes, tape will always look as something added. while some odd color change on the inside can look intentional :)
2013-11-25 23:32 <wpwrak> i.e., "DON'T make it look like an accident" ;-)
2013-11-25 23:32 <DocScrutinizer05> exactly
2013-11-25 23:32 <DocScrutinizer05> really shiny belt might look like the icing on top of the acrylic design
2013-11-25 23:33 <DocScrutinizer05> brushed alu would look really nice
2013-11-25 23:34 <DocScrutinizer05> exact height of the case, ending flush on top and bottom acrylic transparent surface with that black inside it
2013-11-25 23:36 <wpwrak> yeah, pretty and quite impossible :)
2013-11-25 23:36 <DocScrutinizer05> the glossy alu stickytape might work as well, but probably won't have a proper surface
2013-11-25 23:36 <DocScrutinizer05> impossible? how?
2013-11-25 23:36 <wpwrak> if it's flush with the edge, then it'll also be exposed to friction. so it'll separate very quickly
2013-11-25 23:36 <DocScrutinizer05> nah
2013-11-25 23:37 <DocScrutinizer05> get some of that sturdy alu sticky
2013-11-25 23:37 <wpwrak> oh yes. i wouldn't even want paint at the place. maybe epoxy paint, which is nearly indestructible. but then i don't have the tools for that.
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2013-11-25 23:39 <DocScrutinizer05> ok, when I get really bored, I will search for my alu sticky and a matchbox and show you what it could look like. But not this week
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2013-11-25 23:42 <wpwrak> hehe :) i made cases with paint on the inside, on the outside, and mixed, and the difference is just enormous. with the paint on the inside, it looks almost like some iJunk ;-)
2013-11-25 23:42 <DocScrutinizer05> btw when you're extremely worried about the tape edges exposed, do a 0.2mm recession from top-1mm til bottom+1mm all around the case
2013-11-25 23:42 <wpwrak> i can't do recessions with that sort of precision
2013-11-25 23:43 <DocScrutinizer05> :-/
2013-11-25 23:44 <wpwrak> i often have to sand off some 0.5 mm of horizontal mismatch. it's weird, since all the rest is much better. but on the outside, weird things happen. probably the parts are too small for the fixing tape to hold them in place well enough.
2013-11-25 23:45 <DocScrutinizer05> use magnets
2013-11-25 23:45 <DocScrutinizer05> o/
2013-11-25 23:46 <wpwrak> i was more thinking of the pressure coming from some neutrino flow :)
2013-11-25 23:47 <wpwrak> let's say, generated by vaguely waving my hand above the mill
2013-11-25 23:52 <DocScrutinizer05> yeah, pretty hard to build such stuff when the shops not even have ds-sticky and probably no decent workbench in vicinity
2013-11-25 23:54 <DocScrutinizer05> I'd probably contact my carpenter friend, he's used to planing and milling to the 0.1mm precision
2013-11-25 23:54 <DocScrutinizer05> I heard in USA the required precision is ~5mm
2013-11-25 23:58 <DocScrutinizer05> I'd build me a 2 or 3 fixtures where the part fits in tightly